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| links:echolink [2023/07/22 09:42] – created - external edit 127.0.0.1 | links:echolink [2024/11/24 12:52] (current) – va7fi |
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| The //Single-User// mode is what you need to use to connect your smartphone or computer to a repeater over the internet. It's very useful to check in to nets or connect with other hams when you're out of reach from the repeater. | The //Single-User// mode is what you need to use to connect your smartphone or computer to a repeater over the internet. It's very useful to check in to nets or connect with other hams when you're out of reach from the repeater. |
| * The Windows program can be downloaded from the [[http://echolink.org/download.htm | Echolink Download page]] | * The Windows program can be downloaded from the [[http://echolink.org/download.htm | Echolink Download page]] |
| * The Android app can be found on [[https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.echolink.android&hl=en_US | Google Play]] (Click [[https://scarcs.ca/_media/howto/echolink.png |here]] to see Android Settings that are known to work). | * The Android app can be found on [[https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.echolink.android&hl=en_US | Google Play]] (Click [[https://scarcs.ca/_media/links/echolink.png |here]] to see Android Settings that are known to work). |
| * The iOS app can be found on the [[https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/echolink/id350688562 | App Store]] | * The iOS app can be found on the [[https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/echolink/id350688562 | App Store]] |
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| * While the introduction is playing, adjust your phone volume so the level is comfortable: Loud enough, but not too loud that it's distorted. | * While the introduction is playing, adjust your phone volume so the level is comfortable: Loud enough, but not too loud that it's distorted. |
| * Press ''TRANSMIT'' and record a short message and press the PTT again to end. Your message will replay. | * Press ''TRANSMIT'' and record a short message and press the PTT again to end. Your message will replay. |
| * Now compare your sound level to the level of the introduction earlier. If it's different (quieter or louder), click the three little dots on the top right corner, select ''Settings'', and scroll down to ''Microphone Gain''. Adjust higher or lower depending of the situation and retry. On my phone, I had to crank up the gain to +18 dB and my voice is still a little quiet so I know I have to speak a bit louder. Every device will be different, but keep in mind that how you hear yourself is how others will hear you. \\ {{howto:echolink:echolinkapp1.png?250}} {{howto:echolink:echolinkapp2.png?250}} {{howto:echolink:echolinkapp3.png?250}} | * Now compare your sound level to the level of the introduction earlier. If it's different (quieter or louder), click the three little dots on the top right corner, select ''Settings'', and scroll down to ''Microphone Gain''. Adjust higher or lower depending of the situation and retry. On my phone, I had to crank up the gain to +18 dB and my voice is still a little quiet so I know I have to speak a bit louder. Every device will be different, but keep in mind that how you hear yourself is how others will hear you. \\ {{links:echolink:echolinkapp1.png?250}} {{links:echolink:echolinkapp2.png?250}} {{links:echolink:echolinkapp3.png?250}} |
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| {{ :howto:echolink:echolink2.jpg }} | {{ :links:echolink:echolink2.jpg }} |
| The numbers on the white tape are the "o'clock" positions of the dial in case I bump them up, which I've done before. | The numbers on the white tape are the "o'clock" positions of the dial in case I bump them up, which I've done before. |
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| ==== Modem ==== | ==== Modem ==== |
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| * For this setup, I had to tweak the network settings of my router to allow traffic to find the Echolink computer. See more [[:howto:starticip | here]]. | * For this setup, I had to tweak the network settings of my router to allow traffic to find the Echolink computer. See more [[:links:starticip | here]]. |
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| ==== Windows 10 ==== | ==== Windows 10 ==== |
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| The first step is to configure the Signalink unit properly in Windows. At first, it'll probably show as a USB sound device, but I changed the name to "Signalink", which is what you'll see in the screenshots here. | The first step is to configure the Signalink unit properly in Windows. At first, it'll probably show as a USB sound device, but I changed the name to "Signalink", which is what you'll see in the screenshots here. |
| * Right click on the speaker icon on the lower right corner and select "Sounds" {{ howto:echolink:00sounds.jpg |}} | * Right click on the speaker icon on the lower right corner and select "Sounds" {{ links:echolink:00sounds.jpg |}} |
| * Under the "Playback" tab, I changed the name of the USB device to "Signalink", set it as the default, and disabled all the other playback devices since this computer isn't used for anything else than Echolink. {{ howto:echolink:01playback.jpg |}} | * Under the "Playback" tab, I changed the name of the USB device to "Signalink", set it as the default, and disabled all the other playback devices since this computer isn't used for anything else than Echolink. {{ links:echolink:01playback.jpg |}} |
| * The levels should at 0.0dB {{ howto:echolink:02playbacklevels.png }} | * The levels should at 0.0dB {{ links:echolink:02playbacklevels.png }} |
| * There should be no Enhancements {{ howto:echolink:03playbackenhencements.png }} | * There should be no Enhancements {{ links:echolink:03playbackenhencements.png }} |
| * The audio quality can be at "FM Radio Quality". {{ howto:echolink:03soundsb.jpg |}} | * The audio quality can be at "FM Radio Quality". {{ links:echolink:03soundsb.jpg |}} |
| * There should be no Spatial Sounds {{ howto:echolink:echolinkplaybackspacialsounds.png }} | * There should be no Spatial Sounds {{ links:echolink:echolinkplaybackspacialsounds.png }} |
| * Similarly for the "Recording" tab {{ howto:echolink:02recording.jpg |}} | * Similarly for the "Recording" tab {{ links:echolink:02recording.jpg |}} |
| * Levels to 0.0 dB | * Levels to 0.0 dB |
| * Format to ''1 channel, 16 bit, 11025 Hz'' | * Format to ''1 channel, 16 bit, 11025 Hz'' |
| * In the "Sounds" tab, I selected "No Sound" otherwise, Windows sound would be transmitted on the air. Here, if you don't disable the other playback devices, you could simply ensure that the windows sound go to the speakers, but I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. {{ howto:echolink:03sounds.jpg |}} | * In the "Sounds" tab, I selected "No Sound" otherwise, Windows sound would be transmitted on the air. Here, if you don't disable the other playback devices, you could simply ensure that the windows sound go to the speakers, but I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. {{ links:echolink:03sounds.jpg |}} |
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| ==== Echolink Program ==== | ==== Echolink Program ==== |
| * Under "Tools" > "Setup...", select the Signalink devices for the Input and Output devices and click the "Calibrate" button which will change the Fine Tuning number automatically. {{ howto:echolink:04systemsetupaudio.png |}} | * Under "Tools" > "Setup...", select the Signalink devices for the Input and Output devices and click the "Calibrate" button which will change the Fine Tuning number automatically. {{ links:echolink:04systemsetupaudio.png |}} |
| * Under "Tools" > "Sysop Settings...", configure the RX Ctrl settings {{ howto:echolink:05sysop.png |}} | * Under "Tools" > "Sysop Settings...", configure the RX Ctrl settings {{ links:echolink:05sysop.png |}} |
| * A <wrap hi>new setting</wrap> for the TX Ctrl is the sub-audible tone. Without this, the Signalink will transmit only when it hears a voice signal, which is why it needs some delays otherwise it would click in and out at the end of every word. But the sub audible tone keeps the PTT on until the person stops transmitting, even when they pause. This allows the delay on the Signalink to be shortened considerably (more on that later). \\ \\ <fc #ff0000>Update:</fc> I've had to disable this because I //think// it might be causing interference to the tone used by the repeater. I found that the tone transmitted by Echolink is 77Hz but the tone our repeater is expecting is 100Hz so it seems our repeater is not able to decode the two mixed together.{{ howto:echolink:06sysop.png |}} | * A <wrap hi>new setting</wrap> for the TX Ctrl is the sub-audible tone. Without this, the Signalink will transmit only when it hears a voice signal, which is why it needs some delays otherwise it would click in and out at the end of every word. But the sub audible tone keeps the PTT on until the person stops transmitting, even when they pause. This allows the delay on the Signalink to be shortened considerably (more on that later). \\ \\ <fc #ff0000>Update:</fc> I've had to disable this because I //think// it might be causing interference to the tone used by the repeater. I found that the tone transmitted by Echolink is 77Hz but the tone our repeater is expecting is 100Hz so it seems our repeater is not able to decode the two mixed together.{{ links:echolink:06sysop.png |}} |
| * I also disabled the DTMF so as to not conflict with the IRLP node. Users can still connect to Echolink on their phones and computers, but can't control it from their radio. {{ howto:echolink:07sysop.jpg |}} | * I also disabled the DTMF so as to not conflict with the IRLP node. Users can still connect to Echolink on their phones and computers, but can't control it from their radio. {{ links:echolink:07sysop.jpg |}} |
| * Finally, I disabled the disconnect announcement. I find that it's more useful to know when someone connects than when someone disconnects. And during a net when multiple people come and go, the announcements can be quite disrupting. {{ howto:echolink:08sysop.png |}} | * Finally, I disabled the disconnect announcement. I find that it's more useful to know when someone connects than when someone disconnects. And during a net when multiple people come and go, the announcements can be quite disrupting. {{ links:echolink:08sysop.png |}} |
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| * Now turn on the power of the Signalink again and adjust the RX dial until the volume is the same as when it was off. You might have to turn it on and off a few times until you find this spot. For me, it was in the 11 o'clock position. | * Now turn on the power of the Signalink again and adjust the RX dial until the volume is the same as when it was off. You might have to turn it on and off a few times until you find this spot. For me, it was in the 11 o'clock position. |
| * You can now leave the Signalink turned on. | * You can now leave the Signalink turned on. |
| * Adjust the volume of the radio until the volume through your phone is similar to that introduction when you tested the ''*ECHOTEST*'' on your phone. Also watch the meter on the Echolink computer to make sure that you're not over driven. Ideally, the level should be around 2/3 or so. \\ {{howto:echolink:echolinkaudiogate.png|}} | * Adjust the volume of the radio until the volume through your phone is similar to that introduction when you tested the ''*ECHOTEST*'' on your phone. Also watch the meter on the Echolink computer to make sure that you're not over driven. Ideally, the level should be around 2/3 or so. \\ {{links:echolink:echolinkaudiogate.png|}} |
| * Also, when no-one is talking, the level should stay below the slider (which is like an audio squelch). Anytime the level exceeds this, there will be a beep on the phone and it'll be impossible for the user to use the ''TRANSMIT'' button. I found that using the computer for other tasks creates "noise" that can be heard on the phone. | * Also, when no-one is talking, the level should stay below the slider (which is like an audio squelch). Anytime the level exceeds this, there will be a beep on the phone and it'll be impossible for the user to use the ''TRANSMIT'' button. I found that using the computer for other tasks creates "noise" that can be heard on the phone. |
| * Once the radio volume is set, make a note of it. Mine is in the 1 o'clock position. | * Once the radio volume is set, make a note of it. Mine is in the 1 o'clock position. |
